There are three elements that will affect the finished look…
- How the hair is wound onto the roller — The way hair is wound determines your curl formation (spiral, etc.)
- How the roller sits — How the roller ends up sitting in relation to the scalp determines volume and direction. (see photo below)
- Use of products — Where there is more product, there is more hold. Customize your curl by spraying just the ends for curl only on the bottom or spray only the roots and underneath for volume, but straight ends (you’d want to use rollers at least 1-1/2 inches in diameter, preferably larger)
My favorite product for roller sets is Biolage Thermal-Active Setting Spray. It provides a strong hold but doesn’t make the hair crunchy. Curls are shiny and bouncy and soft.
The position the roller ends up at the scalp is a direct result of the angle at which you comb your section before wrapping. For maximum volume, sections need to be over-directed, which means held slightly forward so they will roll down to rest upon their own base.
All of the top sections in these pincurls are wrapped so they come to rest “on base”. Wrap sections on base where you want the most volume by combing them straight upward or slightly forward before rolling.
Wrap the lower sections “off base” by combing them out 0°-45° from the scalp before rolling.
Think about the way you want your hair to fall when you’re planning your curly hair style. I like to start in the crown and bangs and work my way down. Also think about direction, do you want the curls coming toward your face or away from it? Place the roller on whichever side you’ve chosen, and wrap from there.